Description
Our reptile cages are made of 1/2 inch thick black extruded PVC. Compared to the MDF compressed wood cages in this style, our units will not degrade with moisture or separate from wood expansion. This light weight material makes our cages a breeze to move. This unit weighs a total of 25 lbs. and is very solid!
Features
- 2 x Incandescent ceramic light fixture. 100 watt max per socket.External Thermometer and Hydrometer.Polycarbonate sliding doors.Vented sides for airflow.External On/Off Switches for both lights.
- Assembly required – Approx. 30 min with a Phillips head screwdriver. Cages come flat packed.
- When screwed together the material will form a tight seal, but for extra tight seal on walls it is recommended to apply a bead of silicone to all the wall connections. To avoid damage to surfaces, please use a liner between cage and surface. Excess moisture may saturate panels of cage over time.
- Practical and Modern : Our reptile enclosures are made out of animal safe materials. We use ½” extruded rigid PVC, we use this high quality material because of its sleek matte finish, heat retention qualities and not to mention its non porous so it’s easy to clean up and doesn’t promote bacteria growth like other reptile cages may.
- Versatile: Our PVC reptile enclosures can be used for a variety of species depending on their individual needs. All of our PVC reptile cages have been designed to allow either minimal humidity retention or maximum depending on what the keepers goal is, if you are planning on doing a bioactive setup we suggest adding the additional side vents to promote more air flow. Our enclosures are built out of ½” extruded PVC for its superior heat retention qualities, this great quality will result in needing a lower wattage bulb in your reptile enclosure resulting in energy savings and keeping more of your hard earned money in your pocket.
- Product Specification:
Material: ½” rigid expanded PVC
- Lightweight closed-cell foam
- Closed cell surface
- Matte surface finish, both sides. A matte surface is great for reducing unnecessary stress on your reptile because they can not see their reflections.
- Vibration and sound absorbent
- Low thermal conductivity (high insulation value)
- Lightweight
- Chemical resistant, non-corroding
- Low water absorption (does not rot)
Material: Our reptile cages are made of 1/2 inch thick black PVC Foam board ( this is not pvc plastic , it is pvc foam board) . Compared to the MDF compressed wood cages in this style, our units will not degrade with moisture or separate from wood expansion. This light weight material makes our cages a breeze to move. PVC foam board is heat retardant, chemical and water resistant and excellent insulator. The cages are easy to clean , just use wet wipes to remove dirt stains etc.
These cages have vents in the side walls for air flow and circulation.
Thermostat : Most reptiles and amphibians are cold-blooded animals. They depend on external sources of heat to drive their metabolisms and keep their bodies within the proper temperature range. It also means that their habitat must provide a climate that is similar to what they experience in the wild.
How the thermostat works : The enclosure comes fitted with the thermostat to control the temperature inside and provide conducive environment to your pet. The thermostat are very easy to use. The thermostat controls electricity supply to one socket only. When the desired temperature reaches for example 32 degree C. The electricity supply to the socket is cut off . When the temperature drops two degrees C below the desired temperature in this case 30 degree C the electricity supply is resumed. The other two sockets are independent of thermostat. They keep operating even when the temperature has reached the desired level. So do not use heat generating bulbs in these, these can be used for UVB bulbs etc.
The PVC foam board is a good insulator and is very good at maintaining temperature. When you switch the plug into electricity socket and turn on “the first button” i.e one near thermostat the thermostat turns on. Temperature displayed at this time is “the current temperature” inside the vivarium. The bright red dot near temperature indicates the heat source is on. Once the desired temperature is reached, the electric supply will cut off and bright dot will go dim.
How to set the temperature. In order to set the desired temperature push the set button , use up and down arrow to set the temperature. Press set button to save the temperature.
Assembly required –
Approx. 30 min with a Phillips head screwdriver. Cages come flat packed. When screwed together the material will form a tight seal, but for extra tight seal on walls it is recommended to apply a bead of silicone to all the wall connections. To avoid damage to surfaces, please use a liner between cage and surface. Excess moisture may saturate panels of cage over time.
We also have rock backgrounds , please visit our store.
Please Note Following :-
We don’t recommend small ceramic heat emitters or UVA+UVB light bulbs because they’re not safe for the animal, they can easily overheat and cause injury to your reptile. Some safer options would be radiant heat panels, basking bulbs or heat projector bulbs or spot basking bulbs. Our enclosures also insulate very well so you’ll need a much lower wattage bulb than you would in a glass tank. We also recommend checking over your enclosure and all heating and light sources weekly to ensure they’re all in good condition. If you choose to use ceramic heat lamp and UVA+UVB bulbs , always use protective mesh and do not use higher wattage lamps or bulbs, 25 watt is the upper limit.
General Cage Care:
• Don’t stack things on your enclosure; they are not designed to be used as a shelf/table.
• Clean with a mild reptile safe soap & lukewarm water, use a soft cloth and rinse well with clean water.
• We use diluted F-10 or a water/vinegar mix to clean our personal enclosures.
• Rinse the cloth or sponge and change water often when cleaning.
• Do not use razor blades, scrapers, squeegees or brushes.
Safety Tips:
Pet owners don’t typically think about safety when providing care for a reptile. Most reptiles are fairly low maintenance when compared to a dog or a cat. But truth be told, safety is just as important in reptile care as it is the care of any other pet.
Reptiles spend most if not all their time in their enclosure , and good reptile keepers strive to make that enclosure as comfortable and natural as they possibly can. Heating elements, lights, rocks and plants are all accessories that are vital to a good terrarium yet can also be potential hazards to reptiles.
When choosing accessories for your reptile’s terrarium, consider the following
#1 Safe Terrarium:
Choose decorations, such as rocks and plants, that have only smooth surfaces. Your reptile may cut or scrape himself on a sharp surface.
Always use globe protective mesh around heat lamps and light globes to avoid skin burns and injuries.
#2 Preventing Escapes.
It is your duty to be a responsible reptile keeper, and part of that responsibility is preventing escapes. When a reptile gets out of its cage, several things can happen — and none of them are good. If you have a dog or cat, there’s a good chance your pet snake could be bitten or otherwise injured. Additionally, if the snake gets lost inside your house somewhere, there’s a good chance it will die.
You’ve probably heard this before, but I have to say it. All snakes are escape artists. It’s not that they are exceptionally smart. It’s just that snakes don’t need much of an opening to escape from their cages. And they will explore their habitats over and over again, looking for such an opening. After all … time is on their side.
We strongly recommend that you use sliding door glass locks to minimize chances of your reptile escaping from the enclosure.
#3 Wash Plants
If you use live plants to decorate your terrarium, research them to make sure they aren’t poisonous to animals. Wash them thoroughly with water before planting them in your terrarium. This will remove pesticides, which can harm your reptile.
#4 Safe Heating Elements
Avoid using hot rocks as heating elements. These heat sources can become too hot and burn your reptile. Under the glass heat pads are safer.
#5 Pick the Right Bedding
Using the right substrate for your pet. Different species of reptiles require different types of bedding. Research the needs of your particular reptile to make sure you are giving him the right substrate, and stick to commercially sold types. These are safer for reptiles than sand, wood chips or other material gathered outdoors.
#6 Avoid Live Prey
If you have a reptile that eats crickets, don’t leave them in your pet’s enclosure for too long. Crickets can harm your reptile by biting your reptile’s skin and eyes. Give your reptile only two or three crickets at a time, and don’t give him more until he eats them. After an hour, remove any crickets he hasn’t eaten.
Major Delivery Conditions
Permission to leave – By placing an order with us you agree to have the item/s left at the front door (side door, verandah, etc) in the event that no one is home to sign for and receive the item/s or for any other reason. You also agree to accept the risk this may involve.
- PO BOX deliveries – Please DO NOT place an order if you have a PO Box address. Email us first before ordering to see if we can deliver to P O Box address. Australia Post delivers to PO boxes but the deliver cost is too high. If you are willing to pay full cost charged by Aust Post, we can arrange delivery for you.
- Due to size of item we can not combine multiple items. Please confirm delivery charges for larger quantities with us , before you buy.
- Customers have option of arranging their own courier at their expense, please discuss this option with us .
Returns/ Refunds: We accept returns for “change of mind” provided that:
1) Buyer pays for the return postage.
2) Item has not been opened and used.
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